Artículo en inglés de Julia Harding, publicado en el sitio de Jancis Robinson.
Algunos prometedores vinos uruguayos.
Some promising wines from Uruguay.
I spent three days in December 2006 visiting eight wineries in the southern part of Uruguay, where the vast majority of wine-growing takes place. Here are some highlights from what were, on the whole, a range of good-quality, distinctive wines. Wineries are listed in alphabetical order. Many wines were very good, some exceptional. The two wineries that stood out for both quality and character across their entire range were Bodega Bouza and Bodega Pisano, though they could hardly be more different from each other, except in their focus on quality and attention to detail. In fact the contrast between these two producers and their wines provided an excellent insight into what Uruguayan wine can aspire to. The vast majority of producers are small or medium-sized and almost all are family owned and run. For more general information on the country and its wines, see my introductory Uruguay report. For details of availability and prices on various export markets, please contact the producers via the websites or email addresses where they are given below.
GRUPO TRAVERSA, Montevideo
Again a family company but probably the 2nd or 3rd largest producer in Uruguay and I was in the competent hands of the new Export Manager. They are strong on the domestic market, and buying in grapes to supplement their own. Very much at the beginning of the upward path towards higher quality and increased exports. I would say that some of the wines, particularly the whites, need to be a little drier for the export market. The Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc was a good example of a well made commercial wine with attractive aromas and good fruit concentration but just a little too sweet. The straight Sauvignon Blanc was good value but needed a little more concentration to really shine.
Traversa Tannat/Merlot Gran Reserva 2004 Montevideo 16.5 Drink 2007-08
80% Tannat, 20% Merlot. Youthful ruby colour. Peppery and fragrant. 4 months in new US oak for the Tannat component. Very sweet red and black fruit but with cleansing acidity leading to good length. Dense chewy fruit. Soft though present tannins. Juicy not dry. Smoky sweet US oak influence is well balanced by the fruit.
Traversa, Viña Salort Tannat Reserva 2005 Montevideo 16.5 Drink 2007-10
This is Traversa`s premium line. 100% oak. Some reductive notes at the moment, but just needs time and air, I think. Something animal and smoky. Quite powerful and a little astringent but good freshness. Grainy tannins. Not quite knitted together yet.